He has walked me through every question Iv. i'm having is I can't seem to get the truck to run faster than 45 mph at speeds I watched the butterflies start to open at about 35 on TPS. In the time it takes to add your email address you can be at the top of the heap for getting the latest information from our authority. (Note: in the original version of this post we had a section about checking the idle speed curve setting. I would suggest at that point you need to contact whoever is providing your tech support and find out why the default values are not working for you. Going lower with the blanking might pay dividends, but there is so little room below 7/8 that you will quickly be in a range where every tiny variation in the TPS or MAP is throwing extra fuel into the engine. I can drive it a bit but pops through the throttle body when pulling out from a stop (4 speed) and sometimes in the exhaust out on the road. I presume your idle speed table doesn't increase at 200 degrees? It is working fine when you restart the car, controlling idle perfectly at 8 steps open so it is unlikely to fail when the car warms up--or correct itself instantly when you restart it..So, if you don't have any vacuum leak, and the throttle plates are fully closed, the only thing I can guess is something is causing your ignition timing to change. Ive played with the timing on this thing multiple times.Car was fullly restored last year. I did notice that when I thought I had it set It could be that the air flow across the secondaries as they are opening is creating that whistle but that isn't commonly the case.Did you check for leaks around the gasket of the air cleaner? EFI Troubleshooting EFIand and EFI Tuning Tips - In The Garage Media Could you provide me with some things to check or some things to adjust? EFI parts, including the throttle body, and the problem persists.Please give me a hand. The learn percentage should gradually decrease to virtually nothing as the map plus learn table begin to get more and more accurate to your specific setup. While you have over 200 miles on the system, you must realize that in the part of the map where the ECU finds itself during lanches you might only have a total of 5-10 seconds in any given cell. your IAC is at zero. The weather in Ct has finally improved and I have put about 60 miles on the car with the Sniper system. The ticking is inline with the fuel pressure I feel squeezing both the fuel return & delivery lines (like a heartbeat). I called support line he said he would have to look into it and call back. We've already tried adjusting the Acceleration Enrichment chart in all ways, going up and down, RoC Blanking, everything, it has no effect. It is how the engineers allow you to clear a flood condition when you detect it. A simple remove & clean will remedy this . Copyright 2017 Cyberspace Automotive Performance, Inc. All Rights Reserved. It turns out that some of the Snipers are shipping with the minus 40-degree setting drastically lower, as shown in the following image. Comp. I asked him a million questions and waited a long time to save up before purchasing the system and I have asked a lot of questions throughout the installation process. It could be that you've left a vacuum port unplugged, it could be that the throttle plates are misaligned (unlikely), it could be that your IAC is not closing properly. The engine has 14: 1 compression ratio, we can not use gasoline. Or ?I have put a fuel pressure gauge right at the inlet of the sniper and it is reading 60-64 psi. Put a strong piece of tape over the IAC breather hole--duct tape or something that couldn't possibly be sucked into the throttle body. The window you saw in the image above pops up. All times are GMT-6. The headache is the Acceleration Enrichment. A question I cannot get a 100% answer on is can you piggy back off the Sniper EFI TPS for an electronic transmission? If you hit the gas it pops & backfires through the throttle body. and if you do run into any problems then, yes, the plethora of tunability adjustments available through either the handheld or the Sniper Software will certainly be enough to get you right where you need to be! That initial rev is going to be determined by your IAC Park Position. Even though you think your timing is perfect I'd suggest you try cranking about 5-10 degrees of advance into the distributor and just see if that doesn't work better for you.Remember this: adjustable timing pointers go out of adjustment and harmonic balancers slip. Next, clean the IAC and all related parts with brake cleaner. When running it will only stay in closed loop and learn at idle. The whole topic of using the Sniper TPS for transmission control is one deserving of it's own article but I'll try to summarize a bit here. Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. If this is the case then some adjustment of the linkage or the butterfly plates themselves is necessary. I guess we can't have everything. How can I adjust the startup speed down to about 1400 RPM? 63 bomb I would only play with this if you are finding that the other adjustments I suggested aren't working. What I can't explain is why your TPS is acting so randomly. Overview. When stopping, the brakes are unable to overcome the engine so I go to neutral just to stop fighting the engine. Ensure that the secondary linkage is completely closed (both visually and manually.). By the way your site and your accessory products are nice. Also when ac kicks on it will idle down and stall. Even though the Sniper's fuel map is programmed to provide the correct amount of fuel via injectors spraying at 60 PSI, if the pressure is jacked up to 90 PSI the wideband sees that you are rich and faster than you can even detect it audibly lowers the duty cycle to inject the correct amount of fuel. Well, it turns out that with the current firmware this throws the IAC control into a bit of confusion. Just add 5 or 10 degrees of advance and see if it doesn't idle better. Your AFR is pegged lean. and when I close the IAC's hole with his finger, the engine is normal.The data on the touch screen I see are:AFR, A / F = 35.6 I have an adapter on the manifold for squarebore to spreadbore and then a phenolic spacer. Sniper EFI - Holley Was perfect idle iac reading 3. If the minus 40 degree setting is lower than the setting to the right, simply move it up so that it looks something like this: The folks who have tried this have found that their idle speed control behaves much more as they expect. Be aware that there is a spring behind there and a diaphragm that you don't want to tear. Please advise. Bryan McTaggart 02/28/2023 news I would start by datalogging the situation and seeing exactly what your learn table looks like in the area immediately around the tip-in. Some suggestions: i did have the same problem.try lengthening the lever of the throttle.meaning the length from the center of the throttle to the point where you attach your cable or your rod from the peddle. It is easily solved by installing a four-hole gasket or four-hole spacer (depending on your hood clearance issues.) Hello Chris. you have it set. Is this an issue to worry about? By the way, this is a new installation on a 69 Camaro, stock 350, dual sync, etc. Tuning > Advanced > Adv Idle > IAC Startup So I had my Idle set up perfect, with idle timing control off and engine hot the IAC was right at 2-4%. To keep it running in gear, I have to bump the neutral idle up just over 1000 RPM. The Sniper EFI remote IAC (Idle Air Control) and plug is designed to gain installation clearance on some Sniper EFI 2x4 installations. WIthout knowing quite a bit more it will be more than challenging for you to identify the problem and solve it.Fortunately, Holley provides their amazing Sniper Software. EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. I can tell you that when things aren't working the way you wanted them to work that nothing beats knowing for-sure that you don't have a fuel supply problem. If more info is needed just ask. When you first posted this I had no idea how to respond. The TPS will go red with a -15 and the AFR reads heating for a split second, then the idle kicks up to 2000RPM. But I think it is safe to say that you are now at a point were some manual tuning is a good idea. Hi Chris thanks in advance for any tips. Get that thing installed and you're going to know a whole lot more about what's going on. Cycling the power to the Sniper EFI would cure the problem, but not prevent it from coming back. They are prone to be inaccurate. Initial thought is timing but Im running a cd box and the ecu is not controlling and I did not physically change it during the install. Hello Chris. Remove the tape from the IAC breather hole and restart the engine. I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say you either don't have adequate fuel flow or pressure. Otherwise, if removing the air cleaner eliminates the whistle then try to use a thicker gasket or try lightly greasing the gasket. Going in the direction you did (higher) is going to reduce the acceleration fueling that the engine sees. Holley Sniper EFI Problems: Best Fixes According to Manufacturer That, on top of your air leak, is allowing the engine to idle at 2400 RPM. I can have it working fine (5% to 10% at target idle at operating temp.) Since it is unlikely that anything else changed it is most likely the IAC is problematic or the butterflies are not shut all the way. I will confirm TDC with balancer but I have had balancer off and timed it before and after with same results. When you experience this, before you touch anything or shut the engine down, first look at your TPS and your IAC. Those don't impact the way the engine runs and can cause the whistle sound you describe. The noise is definitely coming OUT of the throttle body. I have a Holley Sniper for almost 11 month now and it was running fine with no problems until now. Every time though I can turn the car off and restart and it settles at 850 with IAC 2-4.The thing that has me puzzled is how the with the only difference in condition of the car being the restart, the idle is "fixed"Any clues on where to look next please let me know. Running new vintage air system so the is only a single power wire to compressor thats why I asked if I needed to run input wire to ac relay or if iac would pick it up fast enough(which its not). Hey Chris Hope this helps! Thanks for any info./insight you can provide, Mark. But when you have it then you can look for exactly what the IAC is doing at that point, and if there is anything that might lead to this happening. I've helped folks work through a number of challenges with their Sniper EFI System installations. Ilike a few othersam having idle issues. have noticed on the hand held is that Air/fuel Ratio rises to 20 +/- A/F and the It is temperature dependent but 30 is commonly where you find it. Note: The IAC breather hole is the roughly 1/4-inch triangular hole that sits above and between the secondaries. It will need to see it again and again. Thanks for the great question! I looking for your expert opinion. But another thing to consider is adjusting your target A/F ratio. Those little 1/8 NPT gauges are pretty inexpensive and generally pretty easy to find locally.If you confirm that the pressure is indeed 90 PSI you could pull the fuel pressure regulator apart and check it. To figure this out it's going to be important to gather a bit more data. Were the additional load a simple step function it would be challenge enough for the ECU to gracefully increase the engine speed without overshooting. It has gotten a little better after I drove it for three hours today.I want to save the Kik because if I get this working good then I would like to add A C and use the kick for it.Motor is Mopar 360 with mild cam and automatic. This may require shortening or lengthening a rod. This will let you know at a glance if something is going awry with the fuel pump. He said they have been having an issue with these lately. The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. Could the IAC be broken/malfunctioning? I installed a sniper efi system on my 1969 Camaro. Yes, the sound coming out of your Sniper throttle body is a pulsation from the fuel pump that is pulsing the mechanical fuel pressure regulator. Let me start with the engine not starting until you press the throttle. Installed sniper on 65 galaxie. No big deal, just time to re-adjust! I have driven a stand-alone transmission controller for the 4L60E in my (then) Sniper-equipped '95 GMC pickup using the Sniper TPS with complete success. If you drop it too far the engine will stumble or stall when coming off the throttle with the car out of gear, so you'll know when you've gone too far. But I am having troubles.When stepping on the accelerator slightly with idling, it will be 2000 RPM all the time. And thanks again for taking your time to answer these questions. :-). The IAC is hanging open and not really at 0. I think that your timing is too retarded. That is the first thing you must find. Somehow air is entering the engine that was not entering the engine when you originally set the idle speed screw. At some point you come upon problems that evade the easy answers and this is a good example. Holley Sniper How To Set The IAC (Idle Air Control) in 5 - YouTube Once we recognize that, the next step is to narrow down all possible sources of additional air until we discover the cause.Start by keeping an eye on your IAC number. Enjoy! Short drives is fine then it'll The car cruises fine, and if I was to keep idle at 2000rpm the issue wont happen, its only when the car tries to ramp down to idle position.Thank you for your help, any advice would be appreciated.Thank you,Eric, Whenever we see the AFR go to "Heating" that is an indication that the ECU has been reset. But you've got to find where air is getting into your engine.The reason it's going up as high as 2400 RPM is because once you press the throttle beyond 1% the IAC opens to the park position. Is there any chance that your timing has changed since you installed your Sniper? Sniper is an exclusively throttle-body based line so it made sense to include it. Took it for a lap around the block and came back. There are a few tell-tale signs that can help you diagnose the problem. I certainly appreciate your frustration (as well as your wife's!) Therefore The iac will always be at 10% now, correct? THANK YOU for the "First--Check Your Idle Speed Curve Setting!" An undersized or partially plugged fuel filter is a classic EFI installation mistake. Glad to hear that you have timing control enabled, Gary. I recently install a sniper efi. I am new to the EFI scene but want to learn. This happens no matter how much I adjust the idle screw. Cycled the ignition off. Definitely not 90. In some cases, you may only be able to put as little as 10 RPM between the hard idle and the target idle. Good luck! Just thought I'd ask as there isn't a lot of info out there. This page was generated at 12:25 AM. The motor has 376hp at flywheel and the car is a stick shift. This will go a long way to improving your fuel map without manually adjusting the acceleration enrichment. I will be at a red light trying to brake against the engine. Don't be surprised if one or the other is slightly open. I received from the controller manufacturer greatly understates (at best) the repeated failures of others I know personally who have tried and failed. We are using Target AFR of 9.0: 1, Fuel Base approximately 40% higher. Are these compatible enough? )Then look a the datalog and find out what TPS ROC and MAP ROC is most likely to cause the problem.